Boxwood Biscuit Co. – Spiciest Dish In Columbus Series

We’ve had an eye on these biscuits for a while.

Boxwood Biscuit Co. raged onto the scene as a pop up in August 2020 at Law Bird and quickly moved into a brick-and-mortar location on Russell Street in the Short North.

After a hot sauce delivery this past weekend, I ventured down to the see what all the hub-bub was about. It’s a lovely interior with a window bar, loft area and some nice seating for a quiet brunch. The menu is loaded with biscuits, bowls, sandwiches, and sweets, along with a handful of sides to choose from.

This go-round we went with a Gravy Flight ($9.50), the Fancy Fries ($6.00), the Prairie Bird ($12.00), and the Firebird ($11.00). Diving in first to the Gravy Flight (gross sounding name, solid execution), we went with the Pork Sausage Miso, Truffle Creamed Spinach, and Thunderkiss Red Eye Maple gravies. Of the three, my preference was the Pork Sausage Miso, a modern take on the traditional sausage gravy I’m used to. It’s a bit more complex from a flavor standpoint, but it’s a welcomed complexity. The Truffle Creamed Spinach was my second favorite (The Lady of the Farm’s #1), and the Red Eye came in third (I like my gravy thicc).

So many gravy, so little time.

Up next were the Fancy Fries, “Our “dip stick” fries dusted with sriracha ranch seasoning, topped with cheese, pickled jalapeños, pickled onions, cilantro, and fancy sauce.” I could see myself eating these a lot. The “dip stick” variety was new to me, but it’s basically like sliced fingerling potatoes, making the dipping super easy for maximum coverage while leaving room for your thumb to not get soaked. The cheese and the sriracha ranch dusting round it out and I don’t know if I ever want a different cut of potato again.

Oh you fancy, huh.

Come for the biscuits, but stay for the chicken sandwiches. These are hefty chonkers in the chicken sandwich world and reasonably priced for the size. The Prairie Bird is “A fried chicken breast, topped with american cheese, creamy slaw, franklin frisco sauce, bacon, and maple mustard on a Martins Potato Bun.” The combo of slaw Franklin Frisco and bacon make for a salty, savory topping profile on a sandwich that was too large for The Lady of the Farm to finish.

Common bird law would lead one to wonder why on earth a Biscuit Company has any business being on a “spiciest” list, yet here we are. Boasting several chicken sandwiches, gravy flights, and housemade sauces, two items cheeped into my purview. “Screech” screamed The Firebird; “bawk” croaked the housemade hot sauce. Scooping both up at my abode, I went in on the sauce first, an unconfirmed aged cayenne lumbering forth with the lazy ferocity of a lark. It’s a thicker sauce and a great additive to gravies, with juuuust a hint of heat, but not the spicy star of the show. Shooing the sauce away I reached for the thundering flaps of The Firebird.

A little sloppy, but you won’t hear me complain.

Hot glaze, goddess ranch, and pickled jalapeño guide the fiery meat of this sandwich into your face hole, hinting at its flames with a glistening glaze featuring seeds of some variety. With no TRPV-1 receptors, birds fear no heat, but I am a mere mortal. Emboldening myself as I held the sandwich, I blurted out, “Chicadee-dee-dee, little bird, let’s dance!”

Thicc chicken.

Jumping on the table, Firebird in hand, I took my first bite and was hit with a fiery sweetness, similar to a sweet Thai chili or General Tso’s-esque sauce. A bit sticky with a front of the mouth heat, the linger lasts and kicks you in the teeth. Swooping back for more, The Firebird’s jalapeños added an extra tiny kick, slightly masked by the ranch hiding beneath the bun.

With only a few bites left, The Firebird continued to peck with its peppery persistence, a constant reminder that this sandwich is not for the weak of mouth or spirit. Satisfied with getting out of the triple digit heat levels I sat back, pondering this pernicious passerine. With it’s initial kick and lasting linger, we’re placing The Firebird at #53, just after Bamboo Thai Kitchen’s Extra Spicy Green Curry.

You can find Boxwood Biscuit Co. at 19 W Russell St. Columbus, OH 43215.

Look below for more in our spiciest dish in Columbus series and hit us up if you have any suggestions that are not already on our list!

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